So, turns out pictures of each little process of putting in a skylight aren't that interesting, so here's the finished skylight. I decided to go big on the diverters. They are glued down, but I'm thinking I'll leave the bricks there anyway.
The roof itself also has a nice view. I'm hoping that almost all the water that would touch this skylight by flowing down the roof will not even get to it.
Well, the next batch of work is about the cabin on the upper property. This 'closed in garage' needs to be made into a nice cabin that someone would enjoy living in while being energy efficient.
The first batch of stuff to tackle is to fix the doors. In this picture, you can see I've cut a space for some french doors to go out the west, and you can see the two side doors -one will be a pantry and one will be the bathroom. Notice the concrete lip. That's a problem.
Outside view of the french door hole, and the already in, new bigger window in the upstairs sleeping loft. Still need to put trim around that window.
Close up of the concrete lip. Yes, there's rebar in there too.
Just a little review of how things are working well with my listeroid 6/1. I'm so happy with how things are, it almost seems like I'm going to get some bad luck by talking about it, but, I'm not superstitious.
First, I have the standard 6/1 Listeroid running a typical Chinese 3KST alternator.
The Alt has a *8"* pulley on it, so with my typical flywheels, I'm probably running at around 600rpm
I took the simple voltmeter off of the shaky alternator and mounted it (in a tea tin as a nod to the Brits) in a spot in my gen shed that's easy to see. The switch in this image is for on/off to push power to the house battery bank. I used to sometimes hook up a gas gen and push in AC and forget that the other alt was connected. The house would try and turn the alt!
My personally made manifold to switch from the store-bought diesel in the standard tank to my WVO 'tank'. Yes, the filter is mounted on a board, because this replacement filter didn't have the same mounting holes as the original.
And my fancy WVO heating system, which is just a gravity fed aluminium tube (turns out copper reacts badly to WVO) that runs for a while along the exhaust. I have a gallon jug of WVO hanging in the shed. About 3/4ths of that jug will run the thing for 5 hours.
I was given 10 gallons of gasoline that had mistakenly had a bit of diesel added to it, so I now use that to 'cut' my WVO. I add about a cup of that gas/diesel mix to top off my gallon of WVO. I actually don't even wait for my veg line to heat up anymore. I do start and stop on regular diesel, but once I'm running, I only wait 30 seconds or so before switching to WVO. I *do* run it on regular diesel for about 5 minutes at the END of the run, just to clean out whatever might have built up. Oh, and I've added a bit of 'injection cleaner' stuff to the diesel tank, which seems to be working well.
So I 'permanently' wired in the gas gen shed, so that a strong wire would be in place to deal with the further distance to the house. I also put in a switch so that potential charge is not going OUT the wire. Here's the switch:
and to make the wire, I found a 100' outdoor extension cord with a broken male end and cut it in half and used one half for the positive and one half for the negative, tripling the copper the charges travel on. The house and the gen each have a ground, so I didn't need to run that in the wire. It makes for a beefy cord:
Yay. I get to learn MUCH more about my water heater than I wanted to. Seems to be leaking from somewhere deep inside. Here's what it looks like when you open it up:
Luckily, the company - Takagi - has a very strong tech support line, and they've emailed me a batch of instructions on how to take apart, inspect, and ultimately replace the part with one they're sending me. Still, a big project that is pretty vital to the house. Luckily, we have another water heater and shower down at the yurt.
Here's the problem area, up inside the thing:
that was hard. There were about a zillion pieces, all connected in strange ways. Somehow I managed to get it all the way out, and all the way back together. and it works!
One thing I'm glad I did was to tape batches of screws together that went for each area, and labeled them. Working over the laundry machine on an outside deck with cracks in it, I was very afraid I'd drop a part and never find it again.
For a number of years already, this counter edge has been failing to live up to my ideals. For some stupid reason, I thought it would be cool to have the cob/plaster edge come up and over to the granite counter. stupid. Of course it's a vulnerable edge, and, guess where my kid sits and smashes stuff? Here it is looking horrible:
A while back I'd made a new wooden bumper for it, and spent time oiling it and getting it ready, so that it would match the older bumpers well. I think that matching idea worked out well. However, it was also stupid to build the thing in my shop (like a J) and then try and fit it to the counter. I was most concerned about the way the joint would look *in the wood*, but it turned out to make it much more difficult to fit to the angle... I should have put in one straight piece, then fit the second straight piece, then worked on the joint. Well, maybe. It's true that the way I did it, I know that the joint looks good, and that it's solid (I was able to screw and glue the thing from the inside of the angle)
Another angle. Now I'm lime washing the heck out of the whole area to try and get the wall to look a bit better... and I did a re-plastering. Note above how you can see some of the plaster chipped off when I dug out a channel for the wood.
*Finally* got around to getting my battery chargers wired in properly. I've been working with these things 'on the fly', just carrying them around and using jumper cables and stuff to get through the proof of concept stage. Now that I have it all worked out, I mounted the two different battery chargers (that create 27v or 54v DC from 120 AC from the diesel gen) in the electronics area and wired them in with super thick cable.
Now I can simply start the diesel gen and plug either of these in at the outlet and charge either the house (tops out a 56.8v ) or the freezer batteries (tops out at 27.1v I think).